Präcision in Miniature -
A short introduction into the world of mechanical wristwatches

Mechanical wristwatches have not maintained their popularity just because they do not require a battery change or because of the absence of electromagnetic oscillations. Wearing a refined mechanical wristwatch is not just a question of lifestyle or status. It is often the inconceivable fine mechanical precision that is the root of the fascination for the tiny time machines.

It happened to me during my schooling: A good friend was wearing a white gold Rolex and casually told me that it once fell off the windowsill onto the street without breaking. So I examined the watch more closely and was amazed by the smooth movements of the second hand: “The uninterrupted sweep of the second hand is a patent of Rolex,” is what I heard back then - but the journalists blood in my veins made me question this (inaccurate) claim…

The Clockwork

The motor of a mechanical watch is the manual wind or automatic clockwork. An automatic wristwatch is usually wound using a rotor behind the mechanism. The power reserve produced this way bridges the gap for one or several days (one week, maximum) during which time you do not need to wear or wind the watch.

The second hand of every mechanical watch is coupled with the so-called balance wheel. As the heart of the timepiece, this tiny wheel usually slows down the energy of the balance spring to a range of 18,000 (manual wind mechanics) to 28,800 (automatic mechanics) half oscillations per hour. There are also watches with 36,000 half oscillations per hour (with a dry graphite lubricant). The higher the number of oscillations is, the more precise the timepiece is, at least in theory.

Especially precise wristwatches are tested and adjusted under various conditions; a chronometer certificate verifies the accuracy of excellent mechanical timepieces.

There are large differences in the quality of mechanical clockworks. It is not without reason that Swiss mechanisms have a better reputation than certain cheap products from the Far East. Reliable mechanisms are also produced in Japan or Germany, and sometimes Russia, where they are produced using old Swiss machines that were sold to Russia during the quartz boom.

The differences in quality result from the details. Even in Switzerland and Germany, almost all manufacturers rely on certain suppliers for the sensitive parts of a timepiece. It is, by no means, simple to inexpensively produce an balance wheel spring or a shock protection with a minimum tolerance.

True wristwatch aficionados seldom settle for just a time specification, no matter how precise it is, or how imprecise, as the case may be – you do not choose to wear a mechanical watch because of its precision. The widespread fascination for chronographs certainly originates from motorsports. In these timepieces, a stopwatch function is either integrated into the movement or is mounted as a subdial, a so-called module.

If a calendar function or a calendar complication, as it is referred to in horology, is also included, then the timepiece requires a rather large clockwork or one to two additional modules. Such a complicated timepiece has around 250 individual parts, partially explaining the immense case size of mechanical wristwatches; although many watches are significantly thicker than necessary for design reasons.

Complications

There are several other complications, such as a mechanical alarm in which a miniature hammer creates more or less audible vibrations on the case back. Some alarms with a double resonance case back are so loud that you could not even sleep through them in a night train. 

Another interesting complication is the immensely complex minute repeater. After touching a small lever, a kind of musical clock announces the time using tiny chimes as acoustical indicators. It is like having a church tower clock on your wrist.

A very special construction is the Tourbillon. The balance wheel in this mechanism is located in a permanently rotating frame that at least partially counters the effects of gravity. The precision of a wristwatch is thus increased in a sophisticated and optically attractive manner.

The possibilities of mechanical clockworks are increasing, which is not necessarily the case with the prevalence of complicated mechanisms. Intricate complications can only be produced in expensive hand work, and truly competent watchmakers are rare. It is, therefore, not surprising that even the major brands normally produce just a standard programme compatible with a large-scale production.

Workmanship

A tremendous amount of know-how goes into building the case of a timepiece. Not only the choice of materials but also the workmanship is significant in determining the value and robustness of a wristwatch. For steel watches, the type of steel 316 L has prevailed. It is also used for cutlery and surgical instruments because its minimal nickel emissions rarely result in allergic reactions. Lightweight titanium, precious platinum, and most high-grade gold alloys are even less likely to cause allergic reactions, although white gold can also contain nickel.

The case construction of the wristwatch plays an essential role in its robustness. The case back (with the gaskets) of inexpensive timepieces is pushed; premium timepieces have a screw-in case back or it is fastened with tiny screws. A watch is only truly water resistant when the crown is also screwed on. There are even chronographs with screw-in buttons for the maximum sturdiness. In addition to the normally used hardened mineral glass, the crystal can also be made of scratch-proof sapphire glass as well as shock-resistant Plexiglas. Anti-reflexion coatings are most often applied to the inside but also on both sides (for instrumental watches).

Purchase Advice

If you wear your timepiece daily, then you need a robust automatic watch; if you want extra functions, then you need to treat it carefully. Especially for the every day watch, wearing comfort is at least as crucial as the technology of the mechanism. A leather strap is normally more comfortable to wear than a metal bracelet. As for the watch itself, the general guideline is that steel is more robust than gold, and if a timepiece is to be polished, distinctive shapes and filigree bezels are often an obstacle.

The question of the right brand is also significant, unless the buyer is completely unaware of status thinking. While some premium brands are very well-known, there are also luxury brands for true timepiece gourmets that produce their own clockworks. The larger the depth of in-house production is, the more accredited the manufacturer is. There are also insider tips that successfully integrate robust large-scale production technology and good design.

Well-known brands are not always eminently respectable among timepiece aficionados; there is often a completely different ranking among insiders than the sales statistics would lead you to believe. It is the most fun to wear a watch that is a current insider tip. The value of a good wristwatch is generally quite stable. Before buying your favourite watch, you should realise that if you wish to sell your wristwatch at some point, most buyers willing to pay a high price are only interested in the top model of a well-known brand. Collectors often store their unworn timepieces in a safe in the hope of attaining an appreciation in value.

The price range of mechanical watches can top off at five and even six digit figures. Good functional mechanical timepieces start at 500 Euros, those with perpetual calendars or other exquisite complications can quickly land in the price range around 50,000 Euros. The gold models from famous manufacturers cost an additional € 5,000, but even a steel timepiece can ring in € 10,000 or more.

When it comes right down to it, no one really needs more than two good timepieces: a robust automatic wristwatch for everyday and a luxurious manual wind watch for special occasions. But it is fun to own a few more…

René Roland Katterwe